The following people have agreed to serve as contacts for their particular skills. If you have questions, suggestions for activities, or other comments relating to these skills, please call these folks. Their interest is to help the club better serve their area of expertise. Your participation with them will help them achieve that goal. Click on name to contact them.
Turning: Tom Church 967-4460 Carving: Harry May 962-0215
Sharpening: Bob Reese 728-7974 Joinery: Ross Roepke 455-9140
Health and Safety: Maurice Ryan 962-1555
List of Club Officers
V. President: Ken Gould
Secretary: Barbara Keen
Treasurer: Henry Davis
Publicity: Loyd Ackerman
Newsletter Editor Tom Gillard Jr.
The Executive Committee had a meeting the first part of the month and
covered many items concerning the club and the upcoming year. Some
of these items are listed below.
THEMES FOR THE YEAR:
It was decided that first quarter could be tools, handling and usage. Second quarter could be craftsmanship and materials with the 3rd and 4th quarters being projects.
OTHER BUSINESS: Tom Cowan said he would like the club to get back to the small workshops, where you make a specific project. He will work on trying to get that going again. It was also discussed that it would be nice to have tours of our member's shops. A tour of a sawmill was also discussed. It was also mentioned that gold leaf could also be a topic for a program. Tree identification was mentioned as a suggestion for an outing where we could learn tree identification.
YEARLY DOOR PRIZE:
It was decided to purchase a Tormek sharpening system.
CALENDAR OF EVENTS:
Spring Seminar: April 26th. Theme and place: TBA
Picnic: May 24th. Place TBA
Coffee County Fair: Sept 22-27.
Fall Seminar: Oct 18th. What and where, TBA
Christmas Party: Dec 12th.
WORKSHOPS: There are many items in the works. The only item on the calendar at this time is a Turning Bee at Tom Cowan’s on July 6th. Ideas from the membership would be greatly appreciated. We need input from the masses.
Financial Report for 2003: The club is in good shape going into the New Year.
First, choose the glue that's right for the job
The first time you glued two pieces of wood together, you probably
reached for your bottle of good o'' yellow woodworker's glue. It worked, so
you stuck with it. But if you've ever wondered if there's a better glue for a
particular job, check our What's What in Woodworking Glue chart, and be
confident in your choice. Make a copy of this chart and post it near where
you store your glues, and you'll never again scratch your head over which
glue to use.
Our pros' best gluing tips
One sure way to gauge the expertise of a woodworker is to examine the
joints on his or her projects. Are they free of glue squeeze-out and
rock-solid, even after many years of use? If so, they probably learned (the
hard way, in some cases) many of the tips we'll share here. You'll learn
how to use each of the eight glues in the chart, but because yellow, white,
and water-resistant glues are similar in the way you apply, work, and clamp
them, we'll discuss them together.
Yellow, white, and water-resistant
glues: the old standbys.
You probably use one or more of these
three similar glues more often than any
other type—with good reason. They are
versatile, easy-to-use, and affordable,
and they provide strong bonds. The next
time you reach for one of these glues,
consider trying the following tips:
• For the strongest bond, make sure your
pieces fit together well. Then cover both
joining surfaces with a thin layer of glue.
You can spread it with a brush, a paint
roller, or—Jim's favorite—the plastic core of
a disposable foam paintbrush as shown.
• Clamp with even pressure all along the
joint, but not too hard or you'll squeeze all
the glue out and make a weak joint.
• For small areas, mask the wood
adjacent to the joint with masking tape to
prevent the squeeze-out from getting on your work. For longer joints,
remove the squeeze-out with a damp cloth while it's still wet, "rolling" the
cloth as you go to keep from smearing the excess glue on the adjacent
• To minimize squeeze-out on the face side
of your projects, Chuck suggests you bring
the two pieces together at a slight angle,
joining the face edges first, as shown at left.
As you lay the pieces flat to clamp them, most
of the squeeze-out will be on the back side.
Here are a couple of tips that apply only
to water-resistant glue:
• It tends to separate, so mix it well before
• Wear your shop apron when using
water-resistant glue—it doesn't wash out of
glue: the promising newcomer
Before this glue debuted on the market a few years ago, you had to mix
two components together to create a waterproof glue. Not any longer. For
your outdoor projects, give this glue a try, and you'll like it. Just keep the
following points in mind:
• This product needs a little moisture to make a strong bond. So before
applying polyurethane glue to dry woods, wipe the area to be joined with a
• After clamping, the squeeze-out will appear as a brownish foam. Chuck
says, "Resist the temptation to wipe it off when it's wet, or you'll end up with
a sticky mess." After this foam hardens, it can be cleaned up by slicing it
off with a sharp chisel, bevel side down, working the edge across the joint.
• Buy only as much as you'll use in a year because humidity can cause
this glue to prematurely turn to a useless gel. Extend the shelf life by
keeping the glue bottle closed as much as possible.
Why not hide glue?
Antique furniture restoration experts and some woodworking purists may
wonder why we don't use hide glue in our shop. Historical considerations
aside, hide glue's chief advantage—its extremely long open time—is also
its chief disadvantage. Jan says, "We just never use it. White and yellow
glues allow enough open time for virtually any assembly you're likely to run
across, and you won't need to wait overnight for every joint you clamp.
Also, unlike joints made with hide glue, joints made with these glues won't
to Woodworking Glues
Adjustable Angle Jig
To use the jig, loosen both wing nuts so the support can swivel freely.
Then, using a T-bevel or an adjustable triangle to set the required angle
of the support to the drill bit, tighten the wing nuts to secure the support in
place. Clamp the jig to your drill-press table. Drill a test hole to verify the
angle. Once verified, drill the angled holes in your workpiece.
ANGLE UP ANGLE DOWN EXPLODED VIEW
12” Sears Wood Turning Lathe.
36” between centers, ½ hp motor, 4 speeds;
Comes with the following items:
6” & 12” tool rest, 4” faceplate, table and a speed reduction assembly.
Contact Tom Gillard (455-6651 or 393-0525)
CarbaTec Mini Lathe (Modified with new Electronics from Penn State)
(See page 46 in Penn State Industries catalog for comparison.)
Variable speed 400 to 4500 RPM
Comes with face plate, spur center, live centers, 3 and 6" tool rests, pen mandrel and other extras.
Call: Loyd Ackerman OR 931-728-9952
WEB SITES of INTEREST
Doyle McConnell's page
Loyd Ackerman's Page
Russell Brown's Web Page
American Association of Wood turners
WOOD ONLINE newsletter
Scott Phillips Video Help sessions
Arrowmont School of Arts and Craft
Appalachian Center for the Arts
Forest Products Lab. 1999 Wood Handbook
WOOD Online TVWW page
The Oldham Company
The Woodworker's Choice
10 % OFF Fine Woodworking
Books from Taunton Press
…We're open Monday thru Saturday
SEE YOU ON THE
Tom Gillard Jr.