Tennessee Valley Woodworkers
     Vol. 18/ Issue 1         January  2003         Editor: Tom Gillard Jr. 

Meeting Notice:
The next meeting of the TN Valley Woodworkers
Will be held, January 21st, at 7:00 p.m. in the
 Duck River Electric Building, Decherd, TN
All interested woodworkers are invited!

The following people have agreed to serve as contacts for their particular skills.  If you have questions, suggestions for activities, or other comments relating to these skills, please call these folks.  Their interest is to help the club better serve their area of expertise.  Your participation with them will help them achieve that goal.  Click on name to contact them.

          Design: Alice Berry          454-3815                 Finishing:    Phil Bishop           967-4626
          Turning: Tom Church        967-4460                 Carving:      Harry May           962-0215
          Sharpening: Bob Reese     728-7974                 Joinery:       Ross Roepke       455-9140
          Health and Safety: Maurice Ryan   962-1555

   List of Club Officers

                                                     President:           Doyle McConnell
                                                     V. President:         Ken Gould
                                                     Secretary:           Barbara Keen
                                                     Treasurer:           Henry Davis
                                                     Publicity:             Loyd Ackerman
                                                     Newsletter Editor  Tom Gillard Jr.


The Executive Committee had a meeting the first part of the month and covered many items concerning the club and the upcoming year.  Some of these items are listed below.
 It was decided that first quarter could be tools, handling and usage. Second quarter could be craftsmanship and materials with the 3rd and 4th quarters being projects.

OTHER BUSINESS: Tom Cowan said he would like the club to get back to the small workshops, where you make a specific project.  He will work on trying to get that going again.  It was also discussed that it would be nice to have tours of our member's shops.  A tour of a sawmill was also discussed. It was also mentioned that gold leaf could also be a topic for a program.  Tree identification was mentioned as a suggestion for an outing where we could learn tree identification.

 It was decided to purchase a Tormek sharpening system.

Spring Seminar: April 26th.  Theme and place: TBA
Picnic:  May 24th.  Place TBA
Coffee County Fair:  Sept 22-27.
Fall Seminar:  Oct 18th.  What and where, TBA
Christmas Party:  Dec 12th.

WORKSHOPS:  There are many items in the works. The only item on the calendar at this time is a Turning Bee at Tom Cowan’s on July 6th.  Ideas from the membership would be greatly appreciated.  We need input from the masses.

Financial Report for 2003:  The club is in good shape going into the New Year.

It has been discussed for many months/years now about the best method of doing show and tell.  Some words we have heard are about folks being intimidated because of the high quality of some of the items that are brought in. These people think their work  "isn't good enough".  Well, all the people that come into this club are your friends.  We have NEVER heard any negative comments about any item brought in by someone just starting out.  This is a place of learning.  None of us were born doing this type of work.  There is a learning curve in anything you do.  This club helps smooth out this curve by being able to talk out a problem you might be having.  You get to ask questions and be answers right away.  No one has ever been stingy about helping out.
    So, PLEASE bring in your work.  We WANT to see it!!  As stated in a previous edition, many people have built their good works on learning the mistakes that other have made.  They can jump over the rough spots and move on to another level of quality.



If anyone has information about a member that is sick or has been injured and wants the club to know about it, please let me know so I can get it in the paper…


 Woodworking Glues
                 With all of the gluing products on the market
                 today, choosing the right type for your needs, and
                 using it correctly, can get tricky. For help, we
                 turned to the WOOD® magazine staffers who
                 design and build the projects featured in our
                 publication: Jim Downing, Jan Svec, and Chuck
                 Hedlund. We'll tell you about the eight types they
                 rely on, and share their tips for using each

                 First, choose the glue that's right for the job
                 The first time you glued two pieces of wood together, you probably
                 reached for your bottle of good o'' yellow woodworker's glue. It worked, so
                 you stuck with it. But if you've ever wondered if there's a better glue for a
                 particular job, check our What's What in Woodworking Glue chart, and be
                 confident in your choice. Make a copy of this chart and post it near where
                 you store your glues, and you'll never again scratch your head over which
                 glue to use.

                 Our pros' best gluing tips
                 One sure way to gauge the expertise of a woodworker is to examine the
                 joints on his or her projects. Are they free of glue squeeze-out and
                 rock-solid, even after many years of use? If so, they probably learned (the
                 hard way, in some cases) many of the tips we'll share here. You'll learn
                 how to use each of the eight glues in the chart, but because yellow, white,
                 and water-resistant glues are similar in the way you apply, work, and clamp
                 them, we'll discuss them together.

                                    Woodworking Glues

Yellow, white, and water-resistant
 glues: the old standbys.
You probably use one or more of these
three similar glues more often than any
other type—with good reason. They are
versatile, easy-to-use, and affordable,
and they provide strong bonds. The next
time you reach for one of these glues,
consider trying the following tips:

  •  For the strongest bond, make sure your
      pieces fit together well. Then cover both
      joining surfaces with a thin layer of glue.
      You can spread it with a brush, a paint
      roller, or—Jim's favorite—the plastic core of
      a disposable foam paintbrush as shown.
 •  Clamp with even pressure all along the
     joint, but not too hard or you'll squeeze all
     the glue out and make a weak joint.
•  For small areas, mask the wood
     adjacent to the joint with masking tape to
     prevent the squeeze-out from getting on your work. For longer joints,
     remove the squeeze-out with a damp cloth while it's still wet, "rolling" the
     cloth as you go to keep from smearing the excess glue on the adjacent
  •  To minimize squeeze-out on the face side
of your projects, Chuck suggests you bring
the two pieces together at a slight angle,
joining the face edges first, as shown at left.
As you lay the pieces flat to clamp them, most
of the squeeze-out will be on the back side.

Here are a couple of tips that apply only
 to water-resistant glue:
             •  It tends to separate, so mix it well before
                 each use.
             •  Wear your shop apron when using
                 water-resistant glue—it doesn't wash out of

Polyurethane glue: the promising newcomer
                 Before this glue debuted on the market a few years ago, you had to mix
                 two components together to create a waterproof glue. Not any longer. For
                 your outdoor projects, give this glue a try, and you'll like it. Just keep the
                 following points in mind:
                   •  This product needs a little moisture to make a strong bond. So before
                 applying polyurethane glue to dry woods, wipe the area to be joined with a
                 damp cloth.
                   •  After clamping, the squeeze-out will appear as a brownish foam. Chuck
                 says, "Resist the temptation to wipe it off when it's wet, or you'll end up with
                 a sticky mess." After this foam hardens, it can be cleaned up by slicing it
                 off with a sharp chisel, bevel side down, working the edge across the joint.
                   •  Buy only as much as you'll use in a year because humidity can cause
                 this glue to prematurely turn to a useless gel. Extend the shelf life by
                 keeping the glue bottle closed as much as possible.

                 Why not hide glue?
                 Antique furniture restoration experts and some woodworking purists may
                 wonder why we don't use hide glue in our shop. Historical considerations
                 aside, hide glue's chief advantage—its extremely long open time—is also
                 its chief disadvantage. Jan says, "We just never use it. White and yellow
                 glues allow enough open time for virtually any assembly you're likely to run
                 across, and you won't need to wait overnight for every joint you clamp.
                 Also, unlike joints made with hide glue, joints made with these glues won't
                 weaken overtime."

"WOOD" on-line                                                                                   Guide to Woodworking Glues

Adjustable Angle Jig

Build the jig as shown and
dimensioned on the drawings. The base (A) must
be longer than your drill-press table so the friction
lid supports (one at each end of the jig) clear the table
ends. Use a piano hinge to secure the adjustable
support (B) to the plywood base (A). A pair of
friction lid supports allow you to angle the support and lock it securely in
position. The rest block (C) allows you to position the support parallel to
the drill-press table.

To use the jig, loosen both wing nuts so the support can swivel freely.
Then, using a T-bevel or an adjustable triangle to set the required angle
of the support to the drill bit, tighten the wing nuts to secure the support in
place. Clamp the jig to your drill-press table. Drill a test hole to verify the
angle. Once verified, drill the angled holes in your workpiece.


Craftsman 10 in. Table Saw $250.00
Craftsman Wood Shaper $175.00
14 Shaper Cutters $100.00
Central Machinery 8 in. grinder $75.00
Contact Henry Davis  or  393-3191

12”  Sears Wood Turning Lathe.
 36” between centers, ½ hp motor, 4 speeds;
 Comes with the following items:
6” & 12” tool rest, 4” faceplate, table and a speed reduction assembly.

Contact Tom Gillard   (455-6651 or 393-0525)

CarbaTec Mini Lathe (Modified with new Electronics from Penn State)
(See page 46 in Penn State Industries catalog for comparison.)

Variable speed 400 to 4500 RPM
Comes with face plate, spur center, live centers, 3 and 6" tool rests, pen mandrel and other extras.
Call:  Loyd Ackerman   OR  931-728-9952


Members sites:

Doyle McConnell's page

Loyd Ackerman's Page

Falls Mill

Russell Brown's Web Page

Geoff Roehm

Resource Sites:

American Association of Wood turners

WOOD ONLINE newsletter

Scott Phillips Video Help sessions

Arrowmont School of Arts and Craft

Appalachian Center for the Arts

Forest Products Lab. 1999 Wood Handbook

Woodworker's Journal

WOOD Online TVWW page

Kevin's Woodturnings

The Oldham Company

The Woodworker's Choice


10 % OFF Fine Woodworking
Books from Taunton Press
…We're open Monday thru Saturday

  SEE YOU ON THE 21st!
  Tom Gillard Jr.