Tennessee Valley Woodworkers
Vol. 17/ Issue 10 October 2002 Editor: Tom Gillard Jr.
The next meeting of the TN Valley Woodworkers
Will be held, October 15th, at 7:00 p.m. in the
Duck River Electric Building, Dechard, TN
All interested woodworkers are invited!
Tom Church 967-4460 Turning Harry May 962-0215 Carving
Bob Reese 728-7974 Sharpening Ross Roepke 455-9140 Joinery
Maurice Ryan 962-1555 Health and Safety
The Fall Seminar on Joinery
Bandsaw Resawing Guide
This resawing guide lets you correct for blade drift, and you can build it from parts you probably have lying around your shop.
After struggling with his bandsaw fence, blocks, clamps, and a resaw guide, WOOD® magazine reader John Hodges of Kaufman, Texas, decided to design his own bandsaw resawing guide. You can build one just like it by gathering up some scrap stock and following the illustrations below. To use this guide, first mark a line along the top edge of the piece to be resawn. Adjust the center portion of the jig (A) until the bandsaw blade aligns with the marked line on the wood. Tighten the wing nuts that hold A securely to B. Tighten the wing nut in part C to secure it in the miter-gauge slot.
Because few bandsaw blades track perfectly straight (making a fence
almost useless for resawing), the curved end of part A allows you to steer the
board into the bandsaw blade and make adjustments to follow your marked
line. We recommend using a 1/2"- to 3/4"-wide skip-tooth or hook-tooth
blade for cleaner cuts. And, always use a pushstick for safety when resawing on
The hardwood giant of the virgin forest.
Although few woodworkers become acquainted with the wood of the American sycamore (Platanus occidentalis), that wasn't always so. Back when the United States was still a new nation, and its western frontier was just beyond the Allegheny Mountains, sycamore was the giant of the forest. It wasn't uncommon for pioneers in the Ohio River Valley to come upon huge sycamores. In 1802, one growing on an island in the Ohio River measured 13' in diameter 4' above the ground. Such old, large trees were usually hollow, and thriving despite the malady.
For some purposes, the hollowness made the tree all the more desirable. A frontier farmer would fell the hollow sycamore, then crosscut it to appropriate lengths. By nailing on bottoms of tightly joined board, the industrious plowman had grain-storage containers. Left standing, hollow sycamores also were handy for stabling goats, pigs, and other livestock until a shelter could be built for them. And how many wandering woodsmen might have found refuge in a hollow sycamore?
Although hard, tough, and resistant to splitting, sycamore posed some difficulty in drying. That's why it was used only on a limited basis for
shipping trunks, piano and organ cases, washing machine bodies, and pails. It also was the choice for countertops and chopping blocks in
butcher shops because it withstands the relentless punishment of cutting edges.
While still the largest hardwood tree of American forests, yesteryear's giants have long fallen. If you do spy an elderly sycamore, bang on it. The
trunk may resonate with historic hollowness.
Ditch the miter gauge to increase the accuracy of your benchtop tablesaw.
If you have zero tolerance for tear-out and inaccurate cuts,
you’ll enjoy the results you get with this
zero-clearance crosscut sled designed by WOOD® magazine reader Dan Pacht. He uses the sled to increase the precision of his benchtop
tablesaw. It replaces the wobbly miter gauge, and reduces tear-out by closing the gap in the saw’s wide-open throat plate. You also could modify the sled for use with a stationary tablesaw.
Start by cutting a 1/4" hardboard base to size. Now square the edges of a pine 2x4, ripping it to 3" wide. From it, cut two 24"-long pieces, and glue and screw them together to form an L-shaped fence assembly. Then glue it to the hardboard base.
Next, make a pair of hardwood runners to fit your miter-gauge slots. The runners should fit snugly but still be able to slide.
Place the runners into their slots and run a small bead of glue along each one where the sled’s base will cover them. Center the base/fence assembly side-to-side on your saw’s table. Square the sled’s fence to the saw blade by placing a framing square against the fence face and along the face of the blade. Allow the glue to dry.
Drill countersunk pilot holes in the base, and drive screws through it into the runners. Turn the sled over, and screw each runner into the base/fence assembly. Add a screw eye at one end of the fence so the sled can hang when not in use.
Note: This sled is designed for 3/4"-thick stock. To safely cut thicker
stock, add a 1-1/2x3x4" block behind the fence, aligned with the saw kerf,
to encase the blade.
Finally, make the optional stopblock if you wish, and you’re ready to go.
Simply place the runners into the slots, and raise your blade 1-1/4" above
the saw table. Glide the sled forward until the top of the blade cuts into the
fence and then back out of the cut. Now crosscut your workpiece.
WEB SITES of INTEREST
American Association of Woodturners
Scott Phillips Video Help sessions
Arrowmont School of Arts and Craft
Doyle McConnell's page
Loyd Ackerman's Page
WOOD ONLINE newsletter
Appalachain Center for the Arts
Forest Products Lab. 1999 Wood Handbook
WOOD Online TVWW page
The Oldham Company
The Woodworker's Choice
Russell Brown's Web Page
10 % OFF Fine Woodworking
Books from Taunton Press
…We’re open Monday thru Saturday
Tom Gillard Jr.