Tennessee Valley Woodworkers
The following people have agreed to serve as contacts for their particular
skills. If you have questions, suggestions for activities, or other
comments relating to these skills, please call these folks. Their
interest is to help the club better serve their area of expertise.
Your participation with them will help them achieve that goal.
Vol. 17/ Issue 9
Editor: Tom Gillard Jr.
The next meeting of the TN Valley Woodworkers
Will be held, September 17th, at 7:00 p.m. in the
Duck River Electric Building, Dechard, TN
All interested woodworkers are invited!
Berry 454-3815 Design Phil
Church 967-4460 Turning Harry
Reese 728-7974 Sharpening
Maurice Ryan 962-1555
Health and Safety
President: Bob Leonard
V. President: Doyle McConnell
Secretary: Barbara Keen
Treasurer: Henry Davis
Publicity: Maurice & Ruth Ryan
Newsletter Editor: Tom Gillard Jr.
GOD BLESS AMERICA!
CALENDAR of EVENTS
Coffee County Fair dates September 14-21. The club will
be given a display booth as before and we will have the demonstrations
at the Old Morton Village as in the past. The Club has a tent and
we will have it set up to work under. I think that the Friday and
Saturday (20-21) demonstrations that we has last year worked well.
We will probably have a presence at the site in the evenings if anyone
The booth will need some furniture,
carvings, turnings and any woodwork that we do. It is for display
only and will not be judged. We will decide at the meeting if anyone
wants to man the booth.
If you do band saw quickies,
scroll saw, carve, turn, make baskets, cane chair bottoms or what ever
skill that can be demonstrated at the area please come and be part of a
6 Jointer Pointers
These simple techniques will ensure that your jointer really earns
its keep. You'll not only appreciate this workshop workhorse more, you'll
get better results and great production, too.
1. Always joint downhill. When edge jointing, you have to read the
grain for the correct direction to feed the stock to avoid tear-out. As
shown in Drawing A, feeding stock with the grain running "downhill” from
the outfeed table and away from the knive's rotation produces the best
results. If grain runs in several directions, position the board so
that most of it runs in that direction. End grain generally should not
be jointed because the knives will shatter any unsupported portion of it.
2 A quick adjust for outfeed. A misaligned outfeed table results in
less than perfect cuts. Set too high, you get a concave surface. Too
low, and the cut will be heavier at the back end of the stock. But it doesn't
take much effort to set the outfeed table to match the height of the knives
for a perfect cut.
As shown in Drawing B, first lower the outfeed table slightly,
next turn on the jointer. Set the infeed table for a light cut, then slowly
feed a piece of scrapstock on edge across the knives. Cut into the stock
few inches until about 1" projects over the outfeed table. Now, shut off
the machine. Raise the outfeed table until it touches the bottom of the
stock's jointed portion, then lock it in place. To check the new setting,
finish jointing the edge and make a second pass, pausing 2" into the cut
to see if the outfeed table now fully supports the wood.
3 Joint the face first. To get a jointed edge that's square to
the face of a board, you should joint the face first. Then, with the newly
jointed face against the fence (with the grain running downhill), joint
one edge square with it. This gives you one flat surface as a base for
further milling and a true edge for ripping.
4 Edge-join perfectly. To edge join boards without minute gaps
in the glue lines caused by a slightly out-of-square fence, try this. Select
the good face of each board. Then edge joint one board with its good face
away from the fence. Run the next board through with its good face against
the fence. The two edges of the joint will mate perfectly, even if the
fence was not perfectly square with the jointer table. Glue-up, then repeat
for more width.
5 Flatten the cup. Take at least half of the cup out of warped
boards on your jointer. To do it, first flatten the concave side by face
jointing. Then remove the convex side of the warp by running it through
your planer with the new flat side down. As shown in Drawing C, a shop-altered
pushblock helps get the job done safely.
6 Rabbets work, too. For precision rabbets, you can choose a tablesaw
with a dado set, or a router and rabbeting bit. But do you ever think of
rabbeting with your jointer? Of course, your machine has to
have a rabbeting ledge on the outfeed side. And you must remove the guard.
Do so, and you'll get smooth-surfaced rabbets with minimal set-up time.
The width of the rabbet will be limited to the length of the cutter head
and its depth by your machine's maximum cut.
Make an initial cut to the width and depth of the rabbet at the tablesaw.
Then set the jointer fence to the rabbet's width, and start plowing away
in shallow passes, as shown in Drawing D. As with most woodworking
power tools, a jointer can bite if you're not careful. To avoid an accident,
always keep the following important safety tips in mind.
Wear safety glasses and adequate ear protection.
Be sure the knives are sharp. Tightly secure the fence
and table-adjustment locks before using the machine. And check them occasionally
during operation, with the jointer off. Never make adjustments when the
jointer is running. Don't try "freehand" manipulations that do not
require use of the fence. Avoid heavy cuts that might jam the cutterhead.
Take off no more than 1/16" per pass on softwoods and even less on hardwood
stock. Never joint workpieces less than 3/4" wide or 1/4" thick. Use pushblocks
or hold-downs on wood narrower than 3". When
surfacing stock, keep both hands on top of the workpiece, and use pushblocks.
Henry Davis and Doyle McConnell will be discussing the use and sharpening
of the cabinet scraper. This is an old and tried method of removing
tool marks from wood without the use of sandpaper.
SHOW AND TELL:
Barbara Keen showed a standing Jewelry box made out of Black Walnut
that she and Phil had crafted.
Doyle Mc Connell showed a box he had made out of Knotty Pine.
He said he had 14 of them to make and he found at Michelle a small box
for 98 cents that he was removing the clasp from to be used on his box
since they were cheaper than buying the clasps individually for $2 each.
He bought 14 of them.
He also brought a Red maple bowl that he had turned 1 day and sanded
and finished the next day.
James Parker showed a table made from a 1985 plan in Fine Woodworking.
He used Tongue oil for the finish.
Ken Gould brought in a bowl, which was so thin you could
see through it. He also made another bowl out of a piece of firewood
and asked members if they might know what type of wood it was. He
showed a box he made out of scraps of sassafras and cherry from his last
project. He also had a scraper he had made out of carbon steel and
talked about setting the handle by using heat.
Bob Lowrance said he had been to John Campbell’s Folk School
with Ernie Mills. He carved
a bird out of basswood with acrylic finish.
John Mayberry brought in five bowls made of maple, spalted maple,
cherry, black Walnut and another cherry one. He used a salad bowl finish
on all of them except the Walnut one, so they can be used for edible items.
The Walnut bowl had a polyurethane finish.
Mary Ellen Lindsay showed an Indian relief carving she
had done in the 80’s and also brought a portrait of her granddaughter done
in relief that she is currently working on.
David Whyte brought in a jig that he designed and crafted from
Black Walnut for making box joints. The jig has a set of 5 inserts
to facilitate different dimension joints. He has built the inserts
for sizes ¾, 5/8, ½, 3/8, and ¼ inches. He also
designed it so you could replace the cutting guide when it got worn and
have several of them made up for spares. His fixture has fine adjustment
knobs on each end to allow you do get perfect alignment every time.
He showed an example of box joints done with this fixture and they fit
so tight you would not have to use glue. Not only are Dave’s fixtures
functional but they are also a work of art.
Bob Reese has made 15 violins already and he brought the back
of one that he is restoring. 99% of all violins are made in 2 pieces.
He used a hand plane to facilitate getting this joint perfectly straight
and he said the other key to getting the edge straight was to have the
Knife of the plane extremely sharp. He made a scraper that would scrap
from end to end and be square through out the length. This scraper has
made a job that originally took 90 minutes now take only 10 minutes.
Loyd Ackerman brought in a Walnut bowl that he turned without
letting it dry for the finish turning. He also showed a natural edge
Walnut bowl and a square shallow bowl made out of red heart bought from
Benny’s. He also made a computer desk and brought in the picture
Ross Roepke made a mantle for the church and he made a special
jig for hand sawing to facilitate the mantle being straight. He made another
jig for keeping saw cuts straight on the table saw.
Bill Knight brought in a Sassafras bowl he turned and a Sassafras
bowl with a lid and a Walnut and Box Elder bowl with a Sassafras lid.
He also showed a Plate out of Swamp Maple and a Plate out of cherry with
Tom Gillard bought another sailboat and the rudder was broke
so he decided to make a replacement. The replacements mounting holes
were made utilizing a ½ inch hole filled with a mix of graphite
and epoxy and than drilled to the needed ¼ inch size. He did
this to prevent the wood from splitting with use were the hole is.
A gift in the amount of $35.00 has been sent to the American Cancer
Society in memory of Carl Smith's wife
WELCOME NEW MEMBERS
Let's all make welcome our new members, Bill Davis and Bill Duncan.
Bill Davis is from Petersburg and Bill Duncan is from Fayetteville.
Welcome to the TVW Bill and Bill.
SITES of INTEREST
American Association of Woodturners
Phillips Video Help sessions
School of Arts and Craft
Center for the Arts
Products Lab. 1999 Wood Handbook
Online TVWW page
The Oldham Company
The Woodworker's Choice
Russell Brown's Web Page
Saw Blade Sharpening Services: Branching Out is now offering their
services as a drop off spot to have your saw blades sharpened. The
blades will be picked up (Tuesdays), sharpened, and dropped back off at
Branching Out. The Leitz Tooling Systems out of Collierville, TN
will do the sharpening. Call (393-0525) or stop by for details.
10 % OFF Fine Woodworking
Books from Taunton Press
…We’re open Monday thru Saturday
<font size=-1>Free counters provided by <a href=http://www.andale.com>Andale</a>.<br></font>
Tom Gillard Jr.