Tennessee Valley Woodworkers
    Vol. 17/ Issue 9           September  2002           Editor: Tom Gillard Jr. 

Meeting Notice:
The next meeting of the TN Valley Woodworkers
Will be held, September 17th, at 7:00 p.m. in the
 Duck River Electric Building, Dechard, TN
All interested woodworkers are invited!

The following people have agreed to serve as contacts for their particular skills.  If you have questions, suggestions for activities, or other comments relating to these skills, please call these folks.  Their interest is to help the club better serve their area of expertise.  Your participation with them will help them achieve that goal.

            Alice Berry      454-3815   Design Phil Bishop          967-4626      Finishing
           Tom Church    967-4460   Turning   Harry May           962-0215      Carving
           Bob Reese      728-7974   Sharpening Ross Roepke       455-9140      Joinery

Maurice Ryan   962-1555   Health and Safety

   List of Club Officer
                                                     President:  Bob Leonard
                                                     V. President: Doyle McConnell
                                                     Secretary: Barbara Keen
                                                     Treasurer: Henry Davis
                                                     Publicity: Maurice & Ruth Ryan
                                                     Newsletter Editor: Tom Gillard Jr.



Coffee County Fair dates   September 14-21.  The club will be given a display booth as before and we will have the demonstrations at the Old Morton Village as in the past.  The Club has a tent and we will have it set up to work under.  I think that the Friday and Saturday  (20-21) demonstrations that we has last year worked well.  We will probably have a presence at the site in the evenings if anyone is interested.
       The booth will need some furniture, carvings, turnings and any woodwork that we do.  It is for display only and will not be judged.  We will decide at the meeting if anyone wants to man the booth.
        If you do band saw quickies, scroll saw, carve, turn, make baskets, cane chair bottoms or what ever skill that can be demonstrated at the area please come and be part of a good time.
 The Committee,

6 Jointer Pointers

 These simple techniques will ensure that your jointer really earns its keep. You'll not only appreciate this workshop workhorse more, you'll get better results and great production, too.

1. Always joint downhill. When edge jointing, you have to read the    grain for the correct direction to feed the stock to avoid tear-out. As shown in Drawing A, feeding stock with the grain running "downhill” from the outfeed table and away from the knive's rotation produces the best results. If grain runs in several directions, position the board so   that most of it runs in that direction. End grain generally should not be jointed because the knives will shatter any unsupported portion of it.
2 A quick adjust for outfeed. A misaligned outfeed table results in less than perfect cuts. Set too high, you get a concave surface. Too   low, and the cut will be heavier at the back end of the stock. But it doesn't take much effort to set the outfeed table to match the height of the knives for a perfect cut.

 As shown in Drawing B, first lower the outfeed table slightly, next turn on the jointer. Set the infeed table for a light cut, then slowly feed a piece of scrapstock on edge across the knives. Cut into the stock a few inches until about 1" projects over the outfeed table. Now, shut off the machine. Raise the outfeed table until it touches the bottom of the stock's jointed portion, then lock it in place. To check the new setting, finish jointing the edge and make a second pass, pausing 2" into the cut to see if the outfeed table now fully supports the wood.

 3 Joint the face first. To get a jointed edge that's square to the face of a board, you should joint the face first. Then, with the newly jointed face against the fence (with the grain running downhill), joint one edge square with it. This gives you one flat surface as a base for further milling and a true edge for ripping.
 4 Edge-join perfectly. To edge join boards without minute gaps in the glue lines caused by a slightly out-of-square fence, try this. Select the good face of each board. Then edge joint one board with its good face away from the fence. Run the next board through with its good face against the fence. The two edges of the joint will mate perfectly, even if the fence was not perfectly square with the jointer table. Glue-up, then repeat for more width.

 5 Flatten the cup. Take at least half of the cup out of warped boards on your jointer. To do it, first flatten the concave side by face jointing. Then remove the convex side of the warp by running it through your planer with the new flat side down. As shown in Drawing C, a shop-altered pushblock helps get the job done safely.
6 Rabbets work, too. For precision rabbets, you can choose a tablesaw with a dado set, or a router and rabbeting bit. But do you ever think of rabbeting with your jointer? Of course, your machine has to   have a rabbeting ledge on the outfeed side. And you must remove the guard. Do so, and you'll get smooth-surfaced rabbets with minimal set-up time. The width of the rabbet will be limited to the length of the cutter head and its depth by your machine's maximum cut.

Make an initial cut to the width and depth of the rabbet at the tablesaw.  Then set the jointer fence to the rabbet's width, and start plowing away in shallow passes, as shown in Drawing D.  As with most woodworking power tools, a jointer can bite if you're not careful. To avoid an accident, always keep the following important safety tips in mind.

Wear safety glasses and adequate ear protection.
Be sure the knives are sharp.   Tightly secure the fence and table-adjustment locks before using the machine. And check them occasionally during operation, with the jointer off. Never make adjustments when the jointer is running.  Don't try "freehand" manipulations that do not require use of the fence.  Avoid heavy cuts that might jam the cutterhead. Take off no more than 1/16" per pass on softwoods and even less on hardwood stock. Never joint workpieces less than 3/4" wide or 1/4" thick. Use pushblocks or hold-downs     on wood narrower than 3".  When surfacing stock, keep both hands on top of the workpiece, and use pushblocks.

Henry Davis and Doyle McConnell will be discussing the use and sharpening of the cabinet scraper.  This is an old and tried method of removing tool marks from wood without the use of sandpaper.

Barbara Keen showed a standing Jewelry box made out of Black Walnut that she and Phil had crafted.
Doyle Mc Connell showed a box he had made out of Knotty Pine.  He said he had 14 of them to make and he found at Michelle a small box for 98 cents that he was removing the clasp from to be used on his box since they were cheaper than buying the clasps individually for $2 each.
He bought 14 of them.

He also brought a Red maple bowl that he had turned 1 day and sanded and finished the next day.
James Parker showed a table made from a 1985 plan in Fine Woodworking.  He used Tongue oil for the finish.
 Ken Gould brought in a bowl, which was so thin you could see through it.  He also made another bowl out of a piece of firewood and asked members if they might know what type of wood it was.  He showed a box he made out of scraps of sassafras and cherry from his last project.  He also had a scraper he had made out of carbon steel and talked about setting the handle by using heat.
Bob Lowrance said he had been to John Campbell’s Folk School with Ernie Mills.  He carved

a bird out of basswood with acrylic finish.
John Mayberry brought in five bowls made of maple, spalted maple, cherry, black Walnut and another cherry one. He used a salad bowl finish on all of them except the Walnut one, so they can be used for edible items.  The Walnut bowl had a polyurethane finish.
 Mary Ellen Lindsay showed an Indian relief carving she had done in the 80’s and also brought a portrait of her granddaughter done in relief that she is currently working on.
David Whyte brought in a jig that he designed and crafted from Black Walnut for making box joints.  The jig has a set of 5 inserts to facilitate different dimension joints.  He has built the inserts for sizes ¾, 5/8, ½, 3/8, and ¼ inches.  He also designed it so you could replace the cutting guide when it got worn and have several of them made up for spares.  His fixture has fine adjustment knobs on each end to allow you do get perfect alignment every time.  He showed an example of box joints done with this fixture and they fit so tight you would not have to use glue.  Not only are Dave’s fixtures functional but they are also a work of art.
Bob Reese has made 15 violins already and he brought the back of one that he is restoring.  99% of all violins are made in 2 pieces.  He used a hand plane to facilitate getting this joint perfectly straight and he said the other key to getting the edge straight was to have the Knife of the plane extremely sharp. He made a scraper that would scrap from end to end and be square through out the length. This scraper has made a job that originally took 90 minutes now take only 10 minutes.
Loyd Ackerman brought in a Walnut bowl that he turned without letting it dry for the finish turning.  He also showed a natural edge Walnut bowl and a square shallow bowl made out of red heart bought from Benny’s.  He also made a computer desk and brought in the picture of it.
Ross Roepke made a mantle for the church and he made a special jig for hand sawing to facilitate the mantle being straight. He made another jig for keeping saw cuts straight on the table saw.
Bill Knight brought in a Sassafras bowl he turned and a Sassafras bowl with a lid and a Walnut and Box Elder bowl with a Sassafras lid.  He also showed a Plate out of Swamp Maple and a Plate out of cherry with lacquer finishes.
Tom Gillard bought another sailboat and the rudder was broke so he decided to make a replacement.  The replacements mounting holes were made utilizing a ½ inch hole filled with a mix of graphite and epoxy and than drilled to the needed ¼ inch size.  He did this to prevent the wood from splitting with use were the hole is.
A gift in the amount of $35.00 has been sent to the American Cancer Society in memory of Carl Smith's wife

Let's all make welcome our new members,  Bill Davis and Bill Duncan.
Bill Davis is from Petersburg and Bill Duncan is from Fayetteville. Welcome to the TVW Bill and Bill.


American Association of Woodturners

Scott Phillips Video Help sessions

Arrowmont School of Arts and Craft

Loyd Ackerman's Page

WOOD ONLINE newsletter

Falls Mill

Appalachain Center for the Arts

Forest Products Lab. 1999 Wood Handbook

Woodworker's Journal

WOOD Online TVWW page

Kevin's Woodturnings

The Oldham Company

The Woodworker's Choice

Russell Brown's Web Page

Saw Blade Sharpening Services: Branching Out is now offering their services as a drop off spot to have your saw blades sharpened.  The blades will be picked up (Tuesdays), sharpened, and dropped back off at Branching Out.  The Leitz Tooling Systems out of Collierville, TN will do the sharpening.  Call (393-0525) or stop by for details.


10 % OFF Fine Woodworking
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Tom Gillard Jr.