Tennessee Valley Woodworkers
   Vol. 16/ Issue3                March 2001               Editor: Tom Gillard Jr. 

Meeting Notice:
The next meeting of the TN Valley Woodworkers
Will be held, March 20 at 7:00 p.m. in the
 Duck River Electric Building, Dechard, TN
All interested woodworkers are invited!

The following people have agreed to serve as contacts for their particular skills.  If you have questions, suggestions
for activities, or other comments relating to these skills, please call these folks.  Their interest is to help the
club better serve their area of expertise.  Your participation with them will help them achieve that goal.

Alice Berry     454-3815    Design                    Phil Bishop         967-4626    Finishing
Tom Church   967-4460   Turning                   Harry May          962-0215     Carving
Bob Reese      728-7974   Sharpening              Jim VanCleave    455-8150    Jointery

Maurice Ryan  962-1555   Health and Safety

Calendar of Events
                                  Event                                    Date

                                                                Spring Workshops                        TBD
                                     Spring Seminar                             TBD
                                     Turning "bee"                                5/12
                                     Summer Picnic                              6/23
                                     Fall Seminar                                  TBD
                                    Coffee County Fair                        9/20-22
                                     Christmas Party                             12/7

Be sure and bring your items for show and tell.  We are interested in the activities of ALL our members!

Tom Church just got back from Windsor chair class at John Campbell Folkschool a week ago...I'll have two continuous arm Windsor chairs (with compound bend in the back/arms) one finished and the other ...kinda finished.....I'll do an overview of construction, jigs, fixtures, bending, hand shaping and a of course some fond words about John C Campbell Folkschool.

                            How the environment affects your woodworking

                                    As the seasons change, so will the dimensions of your
                                   wood. But, just as you survive the seasons by living in a
                                   temperature-controlled house, you can help your wood
                                           weather nature's ups and downs, too.

                                STRATEGY 3: As much as possible, control the temperature and
                                humidity level in your shop and wood-storage area so they
                                approximate the environment where your project ultimately will be
                                located. Basement and garage shops in many areas of the country
                                typically require dehumidification in the summer and heating during
                                the winter months. This will help minimize wood movement that
                                might occur after you move the project to its final destination in your
                                home or elsewhere.

                                STRATEGY 4: Take delivery of your wood at least one week
                                before you begin working with it. This gives it time to acclimate to
                                your shop environment. If the wood is being delivered from another
                                part of the country, where the humidity level may be drastically
                                different, give the wood a full month to acclimate. For the wood to
                                adapt properly to its new surroundings you should store it at least 1'
                                off the floor, with evenly spaced stickers that allow air to circulate
                                freely as shown below.

                                STRATEGY 5: If you're building a project under humid
                                conditions, such as during the middle of summer, assume that the
                                workpiece probably will not swell much more. So, in high-humidity
                                conditions you can size frame-and-panel doors and drawer fronts
                                so they're only about 1/16" smaller in width and length than their

                                 However, during the winter, when the air is typically as dry as it will
                                 get during the course of the year, you will have to plan for more
                                 clearance. Under these conditions, an average frame-and-panel
                                 cabinet door should be about 3/16" smaller in width and length than
                                 its opening (3/32" clearance all around). Likewise, a drawer front
                                 should be about 3/16" smaller across its width than its opening.
                                 Because it won't move along its length, you can make the drawer
                                 only 1/16" smaller in this dimension.

Give yourself a gift with this versatile knickknack shelf.

This knickknack shelf makes a great gift because it   can be used for many different purposes and in   many different places. The top is designed with a slotted groove for safely displaying decorative plates or family pictures. The four Shaker-style pegs can be used for hanging everything from hand-dipped candles to keys or necklaces. The dowel rod can be used to hang towels, ties or even baby blankets. Heart-shaped cutouts in the back, plus the contours in the sides, give it a country look that will warm any room. But what makes this project a real winner is that it is easy and fun to build.


Make sure you buy the Shaker pegs (E) before you purchase the rest of the wood for the project. Otherwise, you may not be able to find Shaker pegs to match your choice of wood. A number of mail order sources offer Shaker pegs, but they are available in limited sizes and wood types. Also, be sure to drill the holes in the back (B) to custom fit the pegs.


   Begin by cutting all of the project parts to their overall widths and lengths. Make sure to joint all of the edges on your stationary jointer from longer material lengths.

Lay out the grid for the contours in the sides (C),and mark the points where the design intersectseach grid line  Connect the points with a French curve, and then cut out the shape with a band saw.

   Then rout a 1/8" cove all around the top (A) workpiece. Use a pilot guide with your router bit, and move the router counterclockwise around the perimeter of the top workpiece. Make sure that the workpiece is clamped securely to avoid accidents.  Now use your table saw to cut a 1/4" by 1/4" deep by 20" long stopped groove into the top. This groove is used for displaying decorative plates.  Move the router counterclockwise around the perimeter of the workpiece.

Next, transfer the pattern for the back (B) and sides  (C) onto the workpieces. Then cut them out with a saber saw or band saw. Drill starter holes for the heart-shaped cutouts in the back, and then cut out the section in between with your saber saw. Use a plywood-cutting blade that can cut a tight radius. Use a Forstner bit to drill 1 in. diameter holes into the heart-shaped area of the back (B). Be sure to use a backup board when drilling. Then cut out the remaining shape with a saber saw.

   Carefully sand all the contours in the back and side workpieces, using a drum sander installed in your drill press. Then with a 1/8" cove bit, rout a decorative cove all around the back workpiece as indicated in the illustration.
   Next, locate the holes for the pegs (E) in the back workpiece and the stopped holes for the dowel (D) in the side workpieces. Drill these out with a drill press.


   Secure the back, top and sides to one another with No. 8 by 1-1/2" flathead wood screws and carpenter’s glue. You must predrill the holes. Note that the holes in the top should be countersunk, while those in the sides should be counterbored.  As you assemble the sides to the top and the back, make sure to install the dowel (D). Apply a little dab of glue on each end of the dowel.

   After securing the top, plug the hole recesses in the sides and sand flush. Complete the project by gluing and installing the Shaker pegs.


   Give the project a fine sanding and apply a stain of your choice. Next, give the project a complete coat of polyurethane sealer, sanding when dry. Then give it a final coat of polyurethane. A satin finish polyurethane is preferred.


   When mounting the shelf, try to find the wall studs The shelf should be mounted to at least one stud.   Mark two mounting holes onto the back of the shelf, and drill these out to accommodate No. 10 by 2-1/2" flathead wood screws. Counterbore the holes, and then use two plugs or buttons to fill the hole recesses. It is not necessary to glue these buttons in place. If the shelf is not mounted to a wall stud, substitute the screws with an appropriate fastener and wall anchor.

Scraper Workshop

As announced at the February meeting Jim Van Cleave and Henry Davis will hold a hands-on workshop on sharping and use of the Hand Scraper.  The workshop will be held on Saturday April 7 at Henry’s shop in Tullahoma.   Jim and Henry would like those interested to come to Henry’s shop in groups of four or less at one hour intervals. They figure it should not take over about 45 minutes for you to master using this unique tool.
There has been some questions about just what type scraper the workshop will cover. There are paint scrapers, cabinet scrapers, hand scrapers and probably some other type scrapers.  This workshop will be on the flat rectangular ones that you hold in your hands as opposed to the scrapers that are mounted in a frame or holder of some type.
 Jim and Henry ask that you bring your own scraper.  You do not need to bring files, burnishers, sharping stones, etc.   If you do not have a scraper they are available in most woodworking supply catalogs. On page 68 of the Feb. 01 issue of WOODWORKER’S SUPPLY they are listed as Cabinet scrapers, the straight scraper is listed at $4.50.    ROCKLER list them on page 24 in their Spring 1 2001 catalog as SANDVIK SCAPERS at $8.99. It was reported that this type scraper was available at Lowe’s, but they could not be located there.
 If you are interest in attending this workshop call Henry at 393-3191 or see him at the March meeting to schedule your time.  If you have questions about scrapers and their use or need more information about the workshop feel free to call Jim at 455-8150 or Henry.



Just a reminder to resister at the March meeting for the router drawing.  Remember that the only way you can register is to be at the meeting.


We are always happy to have new members, but last month was sort of special. We had two former members to rejoin us as well as two new members.
One of our charter members Terry Penn rejoined us as did  Dave Cortner .  Dave had been a member in 1998 .   New faces for us last month were Johnnie Brown and Bob Lowrance.   We welcome all of you, old and new.


Arrowmont School of Arts and Craft

WOOD ONLINE newsletter

Falls Mill

Appalachain Center for the Arts

Forest Products Lab. 1999 Wood Handbook

Jim DelToro

Highland Hardware

Woodworker's Journal

John C Campbell Folkschool

Saw Blade Sharpening Services: Branching Out is now offering their services as a drop off spot to have your saw blades sharpened.  The blades will be picked up (Tuesdays), sharpened, and dropped back off at Branching Out.  The Leitz Tooling Systems out of Collierville, TN will do the sharpening.  Call (393-0525) or stop by for details.

Tom Gillard Jr.